Fact If your component diameters (master cylinder, rotor diameter, caliper diameters, etc.) fall within our discussion of component diameters in this article and your pedal is too hard and the car doesn't stop very well, decrease the master cylinder bore diameter.
Fact To get more force at the front calipers or tear wheel cylinders, increase the bore diameter (without changing the master cylinder, or any other components). More piston area (at the wheels) equals more pressure.
Fact Larger diameter rear tires act as a lever and more braking is needed than with a stock tire diameter. This situation (big 'n littles) also brings the weight more to the front of the car.
Fact Proportioning valves alter the rate of pressure rise.
Fact Residual pressure valves are needed at the master cylinder when using drum brakes and wheel cylinders.
Fact If you remove the residual check valve from the master cylinder, you must have at least a 10 lb. (psi) check valve in the line, between the master cylinder and the drum brakes.
Fact To increase pressure from the master cylinder, use a smaller diameter master cylinder bore. RULE OF THUMB: Following the component diameters and weight bias discussed in this story, manual brakes in a street rod can have a one inch or smaller diameter master cylinder bore, while power brake systems can have one-inch or larger (increase or decrease bore diameter by 1/16 or 1/8-inch). Since hydraulic pressure can always be manipulated, there will be variations to this rule of thumb.
Fact Master cylinders with a one-inch and larger bore will give a stiffer feeling pedal, however it will deliver less pressure than a one-inch and smaller diameter bore.
Fact Master cylinders with bigger bores give less pedal travel, yet a firmer feeling pedal, while a smaller diameter bore will yield more pedal travel and give a softer feeling pedal.
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